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Tahoe Rim Trail – Up the Western Shore

Click here to get to the start of the journey. It was cold indeed camping above 9,000 feet at Freel Meadow. I ended up sleeping with the water filter in the sleeping bag again to make sure it didn’t freeze.

View from Freel Meadow

View from Freel Meadow

I rolled out of the warm sleeping bag at about 6 and was met by a cold and windy morning. The chill made it tough to put away the tent, plus the ground cover was wet and I wasn’t sure why. Matching the weather, breakfast was cold as I wasn’t sure I could get water to boil. That saved a little time so I was packed up and rolling by 7. Unfortunately, as I started hiking, I became somewhat dizzy. Not a good sign. This has happened on other long trips and I hadn’t figured out what the cause was for sure. The plan for the day was to stay hydrated and try to camp at a lower altitude. (After the trip I got checked out and found it was most likely a combination of dehydration and sleeping without a pillow that affected me.)

The trail continued heading away from Lake Tahoe through the morning and the scenery became even more impressive. Much of the day was spent traveling through multiple big meadows, such as aptly named Big Meadow, and surrounded by rugged mountains. 

Despite the topography I was making great time, getting to Round Lake for lunch and Showers Lake by 2 pm. The spot was so pretty, I almost called it a day, but decided to press on. By this time the trail had turned north again. 

Showers Lake

Showers Lake

Water got a more scarce beyond the lakes so I committed to a campsite around six miles further on. It was a tough climb, but the rugged beauty kept me going. The trail ran along with the PCT in this area and I spent a little time chatting with a southbound thru-hiker. He confirmed the stream was still wet near my chosen site for the night and I convinced him to make Showers Lake his destination.  

As I continued on, there were more discussions with other southbound PCT backpackers. They were all very nice and all young. At 58, I still can’t get used to being called sir. 

I rolled into my site at about 5 pm for a 20.5 mile day. The stream was but a trickle, but enough. The altitude was 8,400 and I drank throughout the day, so hopefully no dizziness in the morning. I had plenty of time for an Alpine Air freeze dried orange pineapple chicken entrée. It did not live up to my high hopes. 

Day 8 began by dropping down a steep hill then passing through another ski resort. The trail has passed through several resorts through the trip. After crossing a main road near mile 122 I arrive at what’s described in the guides as a seasonal stream. I expected, at most, a trickle but this is a raging torrent. Much smaller streams than this had been bridged, but here I needed to break out the wading sandals. Two TRT thru-hikers heading the other way had tried to throw their packs across the stream and it went badly, costing them their GPS. I took a test trip to make sure I could handle it, then went back and re-crossed with my pack. On the plus side my dusty feet got power washed. IMG_0302

After the rough creek crossing the trail and I climbed for a while. Met Gray Cricket who’s doing a section of PCT up to Mt Larson. He’d been section hiking for years and was hoping to finish in another 20. Sitting for a snack break I was interrupted by a chipmunk trying to get into my pack. This is a busy stretch of trail and they’ve learned. 

The next point of interest was Echo Lake. The reservoir is man made and generates electricity, which was probably why the creek was high. Beautiful vacation homes surround it and are only reachable by foot or boat. It’s also a great place for snacks and a milkshake, provided you get there before Labor Day. All I could do was look through the windows. There was a parking lot there and plenty of day hikers and some backpackers were heading for the Desolation Wilderness and Aloha Lake.

The climb out of Echo Lake was fairly steep and rocky. Most of the day hikers seemed to have turned back by this point. The trail was pretty open and, as always on this hike, sunny. Near Aloha Lake there was a trail intersection that was a bit confusing. I checked my GPS and it told me I was a half mile off the TRT. Everything seemed fine on the map, but without the GPS to agree, I began to lose confidence. Thankfully, while sitting under a tree rereading the map, two guys hiked up and assured me I was right and the GPS was wrong. 

Once I got to Aloha Lake, it was clear why the area was called Desolation Wilderness. The landscape was extraordinarily stark, with few trees and bare rock (boulders and cliffs) all around the lake. Some snow was still hanging on above the lake in the September sun. Aloha is a popular place to camp, but too desolate looking for me. I moved on. 

Aloha Lake

Aloha Lake

By the way, there is a permit required to camp within the Desolation Wilderness, and there are quotas in place to protect the area from overuse. Thru-hikers also need a permit, but are not affected by the quota. The only issue is that you cannot apply for the thru-hiker permit until two weeks before you enter the wilderness. Seems like no big deal until you figure the fact that I’d already been walking for over a week, had a day of travel time, and they mail you the permit. I received mine the day before I left for the hike.

Continuing my walk, I arrived at Susie Lake about 2:30. It was absolutely beautiful and the trail to it had been rocky and rough. By all accounts I should have stopped for the day. I was far enough that I could finish in 2 days and the next good camp spot was a difficult six miles away. 

Unfortunately, when I’m by myself, that simple logic doesn’t work. I can be at a spot so beautiful that you get a lump in your throat, but without someone there to share it with, after a couple minutes it seems sad and lonely. These times make me consider whether to keep doing long solo hikes. Sharing the moment with a text could help, but since I have Sprint, I wouldn’t know for sure. On every hike, I find extensive mileage where other carriers provide service and mine does not. That one percent difference seems to be centered over every trail I hike.

So, I decided to move on over Dicks Pass to Dicks Lake, 6 miles and a 1,600 foot climb and 1,000 foot drop away. The climb was open to the sun, rocky and unrelenting. In an effort to ease the weight of the load I only brought one liter of water, and that didn’t look like enough. After a mile or so, the plan was looking like a mistake. I was tired, hot and already dehydrated. 

Normally I frown on it in the wilderness, but music can help people through a tough effort. I pulled out my earphones and set the playlist to shuffle. The impact was instant. I could feel my heart rate rise and my pace quicken. 

A couple fast tunes had me moving right along. “Too Old to Die Young” (Brother Dege) had me thinking I might be pushing too hard. Then “L’estasi dell’oro {The Ecstasy of Gold} (Ennio Morrricone) came on. If you’re unfamiliar with it, it’s from the classic Western, The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: the cemetery scene. If you haven’t seen it in a while, go to YouTube and watch the scene. I’ll be right here when you get back. By the time that song was over I was practically jogging up the mountain. The only thing to slow me down was hearing one of the songs from the U2 album that everybody got automatically. I have to find out how I can delete that. 

After a while I came across a PCT hiker filling up at a small spring and he told me I was very close to the top. All about perspective. For someone that just walked there from Canada, it probably did seem close. After another 20 minutes I closed in on the high point and the views were tremendous. Taking a break near the top I was joined by a couple marmots.. 

Looking back towards Susie Lake

Looking back towards Susie Lake

Despite being tired and thirsty, I can always go downhill. Kept moving and made the lake by 5:30. Lightheaded, but there after another 20+ mile day. A few other groups were camping in the area, but were plenty of spots around the lake and mine was in a group of pines on a bed of soft needles. 

As soon as I settled in, the coyotes started. The yipping serenade didn’t last long before I was asleep. At that point, I was 137 miles into the 170 mile trip.

I once again got an early start in the morning, rolling by just after 7. Several groups were camping around the lake, but I was first one moving. The trail stayed open and rocky as I dropped by more beautiful lakes and campsites. My morning snack was a Larabar apple pie bar. If you don’t expect it to taste like Mom’s, or Mrs. Smiths, or any apple pie you’ve ever had, it’s not too bad.

Eventually, as I dropped, the trail returned back into the forest and the tread smoothed out. Once again, it was another beautiful day as I strolled downhill for miles. Just before Richardson Lake, I got my first glimpse of Tahoe in a while, but it soon disappeared. All good things, like the downhill, come to an end and I began yet another climb. It was nothing like the previous day’s though. Heading north, with the sun at my back, the climb wasn’t too bad at all. I was carrying more water in an ongoing attempt to avoid being overly dehydrated.

Near the end of the climb was Barker Pass Trailhead and good numbers of day hikers. I talked with several folks and was followed for a bit by someone’s drone. Based on the blinking red light, the high pitched noise machine seemed to be signaling to me. In an international language I thought it might understand, I signaled back. It apparently took the hint and flew off to disturb somebody else’s outdoor experience.

Once I finally got close to topping out there were some great views of the lake. Dropping back down a bit, I found a campsite with a small stream. The site was small and dusty, but I was tired and needed water. It would do after another 20 mile day. Tahoe City was nearly in reach!

After dinner, about 7 pm, I climbed into the tent to relax and read for a few minutes. Next thing I knew, it was about 5:30 am. After 10+ hours of sleep it seemed like a good time to get moving. I packed up by headlamp and started down the trail just as it began to get light. 

An early start, hiking by headlamp.

An early start, hiking by headlamp.

The trail dropped a little way while being etched into the side of some rugged cliffs. I was around 8,000 feet and starting to see the beginnings of beautiful fall color developing around me. It wasn’t long before the drop ended and the path began the climb up towards impressive Twin Peaks. After several switchbacks I entered Granite Chief Wilderness; no permit required. A few groups were camping there and I assumed the crowd must be due to it being the weekend.  Just below the peaks the PCT split off and I turned for Tahoe City. 

Near Twin Peaks

Near Twin Peaks

After a couple more views of the lake the trail began a long drop into the woods. Over the miles the trail smoothed out and leveled out, eventually turning into an old forest service road. I knew I was getting close to civilization as I start meeting walkers with dogs. You can tell how far you are from a parking lot based on the size of the dog. Once you see a Dachshund or a Bichon, you’re within a half mile. 

Talked with a woman with three Belgian Shepherds (2-3 miles from a parking lot). She ask, “Where you from? You got an ache-sent!”

 “Cincinnati, and from where I’m standing, you’re the one with the accent.” (All about perspective.) 

With that, she couldn’t stop laughing. “Har har. Ache-sent!”  She ended up telling me about a couple restaurants to try. 

Right on cue, based on my dog mileage meter, I came to a parking lot. The trail continued across the street, hit another forest service road and went straight up the hill, possibly the steepest half mile of the entire trail. This hike was not over just yet. 

Knowing I had to be getting close, I kept pushing as the trail flattened out. I passed through a grove of yellowing aspen, across a meadow and finally to a sign saying Tahoe City: 2 miles.

The path dropped for most of two miles to a park, joined a bike/hike trail and crossed a bridge over the nearly empty Truckee River. Across the street was the hill I started up to begin the journey. I’d hiked either 170 or 173 miles depending on which guide I looked at. Regardless, it was just after noon and I was done! I’d hiked the last 75 miles in 3 1/2 days. I don’t recommend that pace. 

Looks like I'm done.

Looks like I’m done.

On the quarter mile walk up to the hotel, I swung into a grocery store for a Coke and a razor. A two week neck beard looks good on no one. Once cleaned up, I hit the Blue Agave Mexican restaurant again. It seemed a little ironic as I had carried tortillas for the whole trip and never touched one. 

Tahoe Rim Trail – Halfway and Beyond

Click here to get to the start of this journey. The bus into South Tahoe took me to the Stateline Transit Center which happened to be next door to the Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel where I had a reservation for the night. The place was very nice; maybe too nice for a hiker, but I wasn’t complaining. I had picked it after a short Internet search because it was next to a bus stop, had a laundry on site, accepted a mailed resupply package and had a room available. At $120 per night, it was more than other lodging in the area, but also much fancier. My “suite” had a separate living area, three TVs and a spectacular shower. My opinion of the shower may have been affected by it being my first shower in nearly a week though. On top of that, they had a daily happy hour with $2 beer and free snacks. It looked like my evening was set.

Heading down to Happy Hour

Heading down to Happy Hour

Checking the TV weather forecast, there was indeed rain approaching. The next day (Tuesday) was looking like it could be a wash out. Since I had plenty of time to finish the trail before my flight back, I made the less than difficult decision to stay in the lap of luxury another night. Unfortunately, when I tried to book a 2nd night, they stated they were full. Back to the web where I found a room a block away. I’d be moving to the Alpine Inn. It was slightly lower on the indulgence scale, but at $55/night, the cost matched the opulence. My room was clean, so it was fine. 

Beyond switching hotels and strolling a quarter mile to Sports LTD for a fresh fuel canister, the “day off” was chore free. The rain fizzled out by mid-morning so the cool cloudy day would have been perfect for hiking. It was also perfect for relaxing and my legs weren’t protesting about the day off. I visited the lakefront, the Explore Tahoe Visitor Center, a couple great restaurants and, of course, the $2 Happy Hour. In addition, just across the street was Nevada and a couple casinos. Since I feel that backpacking solo is enough of a gamble, I steered clear of those.

Big casinos start at the Nevada line.

Big casinos start at the Nevada line, just down the street.

Morning found me on the first bus (7:20 AM) heading back to the trail and by 8 AM I was off the bus, the side trail and back on the TRT. The bear canister was full, but with more water available on this half of the trail, I was only carrying two liters.

Despite being near the southwest corner of the lake, the trail continued heading in a generally southern direction for the next 25 miles, getting well away from regular views of the lake. The path climbed into taller mountains that still harbored significant snow near their peaks. The big granite boulders were reminiscent of hiking near Yosemite. Lunch was by Star Lake, a beautiful snow fed spot where I refilled my water before continuing the climb.

Time for lunch

Time for lunch

The grade was moderate, but unrelenting until I made it to Freel Pass. At 9,700 feet there were some tremendous views. Along the way I passed a couple pushing their bikes/camping equipment up the trail. The woman talked to me about how hard it was to push her load up the hill. It didn’t look fun. At a certain point the bike just became a poorly designed wheelbarrow. Of course when they flew by on the next downgrade she was not complaining. 

Dropping from Freel Pass, the trail was etched into a pretty steep mountainside. As I stepped aside (as much as possible) to let a few mountain bikers by, one told me, “Thank you so much! I’m scared to death of heights!” It never ceases to amaze me how often I meet people scared of heights while I’m “in heights.” She was not enjoying her chosen recreation.

Looking south of Freel Pass

Looking south of Freel Pass

With about 16 miles in for the day, I was hiking the high, wide ridge of Freel Meadow. There were great views of either the distant Lake Tahoe to the north or impressive mountains to the south. It seemed like a good spot to stop for the night and I picked a spot with a southern view. With the tent sitting exposed at about 9,200 feet, it looked like it could be a cold night. IMG_5224

Now what?

Tahoe Rim Trail – The Dry Stretch

Seems to be a dog friendly trail.

Seems to be a dog friendly trail.

Click here to get to the start of this journey. The night at Grey Lake was a bit warmer than the night before, probably in the mid-forties. For the second night, I slept with my water filter. The first night was to keep it from freezing. Apparently the second night was just so it didn’t feel unwanted. Despite that awkwardness, I slept pretty well and got rolling on Day 3 by around 7:15.

In a move that will certainly upset any purists, I climbed out of the Grey Lake camp on a different trail than I came in on. This put me back on the TRT a bit beyond where I had left it; near what was left of Mud Lake. I suppose I could have stayed on the TRT and got my water at Mud Lake, but as it looked more like Mud Puddle, I was happy that I had made the detour.

Regardless, the climb out was significant and I was doubly glad that I didn’t try it the evening before laden with water.

Once back on the TRT, the path kept climbing. There was nothing extreme, but several miles with long switchbacks and even a few stairs. I completed the climb to the top of Relay Peak at about 9:30. I was at 10,330 feet and the highest spot on the trail. It was a great spot to take in the views and fit in a snack and a break. IMG_0097

Heading down the back side of Relay Peak, I had the option of 5.5 miles of new trail or 4.5 miles of old trail/road. Not wanting to offend purist hikers even more, I took the longer trail even though that meant some additional climbing. Dropping down, the new route was well built. As it was Saturday and the weather was perfect, I started meeting a significant number of day hikers. One stuck in my mind as he was wearing a shirt I’d never seen before. There were a photo of Native Americans from the 1800’s. Wording was “Homeland Security: Fighting Terrorism Since 1492.” I guess everything is a matter of perspective.

Yours truly by Galena Falls

Yours truly by Galena Falls

I found a large group of day hikers around Galena Falls. It’s no wonder, the falls are really impressive drops of freezing cold water. Since I had a bit of water left, I didn’t bother to filter any among the crowd and kept pushing toward Ophir Creek. A light pack and downhill trail kept me going at a good clip. The area’s big boulders and open pine forest was very reminiscent of much of the JMT, though not quite as dramatic. The crowds of hikers reminded me that this was no wilderness either. 

I soon hit a road crossing/trailhead with a restroom and garbage cans. A couple ways to lighten the load. Across the street was the entrance to a National Forest Service campground. The trail follows the entrance road before dropping into the woods just before the camp office. However, a 50 yard detour put me at a water hydrant where I filled up a couple bottles of water; no filtering needed!  I thought about filling everything as I was looking at a dry camp, but didn’t want to load up any sooner than necessary. 

Once out of Mt Rose Wilderness area, the mountain bikes returned to the trail. I don’t consider them a problem, but if you do, they are only allowed on this stretch on even number days. IMG_0123

I soon Found Ophir Creek and filled my remaining water bottles. I was looking to camp after another four miles or so and this would be my last chance for water for quite a while. Past the creek the trail was flat to rolling, but I still felt the weight of carting 4+ liters of water. 

A couple puffy clouds floated by and I was under cloud cover for a few minutes; the first time that had happened on the hike. Apparently things were going to change. Two different people on the trail both told me there was rain forecast for Tuesday (three days). I’d have to wait and see on that one. 

Several people walked by carrying grizzly spray, which seemed like tremendous overkill as there are no grizzlies in either California or Nevada. One of the bearophobes began checking on me to make sure I’d survive the upcoming cool night. I told him I’d be happy down to 25, miserable below 15 and only become a frosty corpse if the temperature dropped below zero. (The forecast was for 35.) A few mountain bikers were wearing bear bells as well. Between the bells one guy was wearing and his girlfriend loudly making fun of him about it as they rode, I knew they would be 100% safe; from bears anyway. 

After passing on a few large open campsite opportunities,  I spotted a pretty little spot within some tall pines, but with a bit of a view. I was done for the day around four. One of my favorite freeze dried meals, Pasta primavera, was on the menu.

After dinner I walked about 200 yards back up the trail to a tremendous lake overlook near the 46 ½ mile mark of the trail. The spot came complete with a comfortable rock chair to sit and watch the sunset. IMG_0142

After heading back to the overlook to watch the sunrise, I got going about 7. I made pretty good time early on, and started seeing runners heading the other way. All were moving fairly slowly. Turned out they were participants in a 204 mile race around Lake Tahoe. They had started a couple days earlier, with a time limit of 100 hours. I saw maybe 30 runners that had completed 120-130 miles at that point. Few of them were smiling and talking. Most were grim. In fact, a couple looked like they were barely staying ahead of the grim reaper.

I’ve run many trail races. I’ve even run a few marathons, but I couldn’t even comprehend wanting to race 200+ miles. I didn’t even know how to cheer them on. “Looking good! Only 80 miles to go?”

The trail was flat to downhill and the walking continued to be easy. It was a good thing as I needed to make significant miles on that day. By mid-morning I was in Lake Tahoe (Nevada) State Park and there were only 2 areas where I could legally camp. Marlette Camp was right on the trail, but I reached there mid-afternoon; too early to stop. North Canyon Camp was five miles further down the trail, but required hiking a mile and a half down a side trail. I decided to hike all the way out of the park before stopping. I did stop at Marlette Campground for a snack and to refill my water supply. The well water was my first option since Ophir Creek, 13 miles back. The well was potable, though a sign said it was tad high in aluminum. Since I lose the opportunity to drink beer out of aluminum cans while on the trail, a little extra in the water was probably fine.

From there the trail started climbing, eventually getting back to 9,000 feet. The stretch was on a high ridge running the east side of that lake. It bounced on either side of ridge top for a bit giving views of both the lake and mountains to the east. It eventually spent several miles overlooking the lake with great views of Tahoe and Marlette Lakes.IMG_0184

Unfortunately, the wide open vistas meant no trees, no shade and howling wind. I just wanted to get that stretch over with. 

No hiding from the sun, or the wind.

No hiding from the sun, or the wind.

I needed water for the night and morning and there wasn’t any on the trail for a while, so I cut off toward Spooner Lake. The guide showed restrooms and water on far side of the lake if I didn’t want to filter the turbid water. I didn’t. It had been a long day and the 1.5 mile detour went slowly. I tried the first cutoff hoping it was there, but it was just an empty parking lot. Kept walking for a while among a number of day hikers. Finally, I ask a guy walking the trail if he knew where the restrooms and water were. He said he saw some portalets, but the restroom was under construction. My heart just sank, but I kept walking. Got up near another parking lot and there was a hydrant. Yea! I’d have been up a creek w/o that water.  

Near the hydrant were a couple guys sitting under a pop up booth. Turns out they were support for a bike race, had burritos in a warmer and offered me some. That detour was getting better all the time. I ate my unexpected big dinner, loaded up with 4 liters of water and headed down the trail. I even crossed paths with a couple deer as I walked back along Spooner Lake. The burritos gave me energy to climb the steep hill at the park’s exit and I continued to the first decent camp spot I could find. With the water detour, I had walked around 21 miles and was beat.

It stayed windy throughout the night, rattling the tent and making sleep difficult. I was up before first light, had a bar for breakfast and was moving by 6:40. I was looking at a 4 mile climb to Lake View then 12 or so more miles to my break in South Tahoe. 

The climb was significant, but not overly difficult and in around 2 hours I topped out to a really cool view of the lake from near 9,000 feet. With the temp around 40 and the wind howling, it wasn’t just cool, but downright cold. I took some quick pictures and moved on. Once off the edge of the rim, the updraft wind eased off quite a bit. IMG_0207

The next nine miles were mostly downhill, dropping close to 2,000 feet in that stretch. With visions of a hot shower and cold beer I was hustling and made it to Kingsbury Grade by noon. There’s a road (Route 207) crossing there and the local bus service uses it. You’d be tempted to jump onto the road and hike it towards town and the closest bus stop. Don’t do it. The road is windy, steep, not safe to walk along and the bus stop is nowhere close. Continue on the trail another few miles and take a half mile side trail right to a bus stop at Stagecoach Lodge.

Just 1/2 mile to the bus!

Just 1/2 mile to the bus!

The $2 fare delivered me nearly to the door to the Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel in plenty of time for Happy Hour. Eighty one miles down, 89 to go.

What’s next?